BIRDS of ARGENTINA

Burrowing Parrot

They frequent open fields or bush covered steppe in small flocks that search for fruits, seeds and tender sprouts on trees, bushes and on the ground. They make short low flights while feeding. There always is a bird “on watch” while the others feed, sometimes they feed on corn or wheat causing loses in the crops. Burrowing Parrots travels extensively in search of food. When it is returning to their roosting sites they fly high, and are very noisy.

They form colonies, dig the long burrows in which they nest, some being a meter in length. These burrows are usually found on cliffs of creeks, rivers or sea shores. Some pairs mate for life. They lay 2-4 white eggs which they incubate for 20 days. They gather to sit on telephone wires, posts and exposed branches at top of trees. They have been heavily combated as a pest or captured to be sold as cage birds.

The species of Patagonia is believed to be different to the one in the North West of Argentina, and different to the one in Chile. They are probably 3 subspecies.Consult to come and enjoy us!!!

Carol Mackie -

(Photos - Berna Urtubey - Carol Mackie - Carlos Passera)

COMMITMENT WITH NATURE

Good News from the Directors desk

Causana Viajes has always believed in sharing profits with conservation projects, has obtained important land donations for local ONG’s, and at our initial years even helped form a local ONG that works protecting, researching and education about the Patagonian coastal orcas. Through our 13 years of existence we have employed as many local people as possible, formed guides and tour leaders. This is one of the principles of Ecotourism, or sustainable tourism we have been able to fulfill. I am happy to announce that in 2009 we decided that the funds obtained in the year 2008 for this purpose would have a new destination. The idea is EDUCATION. To educate travelers and locals equally by publishing books, pocket fieldguides and even our new blog.

Today I am pleased to announce the book DINOSAURIOS, Relatos y sueños de un Guardafauana by Carlos A. Passera. The first part of the book is stories about the Passera’s family experiences at Punta Tombo and the years Carlos was a “guardafauna” (Park Ranger) at this immense penguin colony. The second part is about Carlos’s dreams of what he would like to happen to the Nature Reserve of the province of Chubut in the near future. His goal with this book is to create debates and forums of discussion and why not waken some of the dormant authorities. This province was a pioneer in conservation in Latin America in the 1960’s and we wish it would remain that way so Carlos is trying to shake us all and waken us while we read his second part of the book. The Fundación Patagonia Natural (FPN), The Fundación Vida Silvestre Argentina (FVSA), the Instituto de Enseñanaza Superior (IDES) and Causana Viajes recommend the reading of DINOSAURIOS . The author of the book ilustrations is Juan Carlos De Souza, a young voluntier from Fundación Vida Silvestre Argentina, and now an Agronomist Engineer. The title of the book comes from a conversation Carlos’s had with a colleague many years ago while they were on assignment writing an article for a BA magazine. His Friend “the Negro Acosta” said to Carlos: - “ You are a dinosaur”, - What? – Carlos asked. - “Yes, you and the “fat guy of the whales”, and so many others that look for the last pure corners of the Earth, are DINOSAURS. You are condemned to extinction because you dream about an ideal world that languishes. Practice your Spanish so you friends, who care about nature like we do, can read this book and participate in the debate. Carol Mackie de Passera

Polar Experiences

The Eyes of the Bear

by Carlos A. Passera

My experiences in the artic region left a sour taste in my spirit. The footprints of man are omnipresent, and nature is retreating at high speed. The ice disappearing, wildlife is threatened and scares… Scientific information and media news alert with apocalyptic predictions. And what our eyes see and the spirit feels is not encouraging. Audrey Benedict – Director of Cloud Ridge Naturalist and essentially sensitive soul- wrote after her recently trip to the artic region:

“…The trip to the Russian Arctic and Siberia was devastating to me in terms of facing the harsh realities and accelerating pace of "the end of nature" (to quote Bill McKibben) as we know it in all Polar Regions--HEAD-ON! Yes, of course, seeing the scenery and so many tundra wildflowers, as well as the extraordinary seabird nesting cliffs, was a wonderful experience overall. But, then there was the dark, omnipresent cloud of environmental decay and destruction everywhere we went. We are, in my view, well over the environmental "tipping point" where the impacts of global warming are concerned. Seeing evidence everywhere of the incredible rate at which permafrost is melting on land and beneath the sea floor (and the associated release of methane gas) and what this truly means for future climate makes worrying about carbon footprints seem almost ludicrous. Couple this with witnessing several polar bears swimming to their inevitable deaths (already 90 km offshore) in what could only be a desperate search for sea ice and food left me almost paralyzed and emotionally drained. I will never, ever forget looking into the eyes of the last polar bear I saw swimming northward. Though I've never felt that what I do is "Ecotourism" in the traditional sense--I've also NEVER felt, as I did this time, that I'd grossly misrepresented to people what they could expect to experience and see on a trip. How do you”market" a trip to see suicidal polar bears and seabird rookeries where there has been NO successful reproduction because there were NO fish to be caught? I haven't even been able to download the pictures I took on the trip--I see every image too vividly in my mind. I even wrestle with what to tell my grandchildren. The truth, of course, but how will I frame it for them?”

My thoughts remain fixed on to the eyes of the polar bear of her description: “…I will never, ever forget looking into the eyes of the last polar bear I saw swimming northward…” That paragraph reflects the agony of the Artic. I can reproduce the moment without any effort in my mind, and feel what she feels. Also I am begging to imagine what the bear feels… While writing I saw myself surrounded by endless open sea waters. No trace of ice, only water. At the distance a tiny white spot getting bigger and bigger as the ship get closer to it. The distance that separate the white spot – the polar bear- to the ship is shorter enough to see the bear’s head. Like with a powerful zooming our eyes get in contact. For a few seconds we looked each other. Suddenly –like if the bear knows- he focuses his sight to the distance, straight ahead, to the far horizon. I do the same hoping to catch a glimpse of the elusive ice. My mind –again like other countless times- reproduce images from the other side of the world: the Antarctic. Down there things are not much different. There are no polar bears. Artic comes from the Greek “Arctos”, Land of the Bear. Antarctica is the opposite; and -like every opposite- it’s bursting with life. No polar bears but millions of penguins of different species, seals, sea lions, elephant seals, whales and myriads of sea birds… not many humans. It seems like Antarctica is a paradise. Nevertheless, slowly but steady, nature claims for attention. The ice cap is melting. Temperature is rising. Penguins decline in number. Krill –as the main food resource is harvested…

Human presences provoke disturbances. Ecotourism increase its impact… Nowadays there are no more Macaroni Penguins in Hanna Point, and you can notice the erosion and declined of the colonies of Gentoos, and Chinstraps caused for thousands of visitors every season. Despite regulations, it is possible to find seven –yes 7- ships inside the caldera of Deception Island at the same time. There are more examples: accidents caused by ships, oil spills, grounded or sunk vessels. There are numbers, scientific statistics and premonitions. Same picture in both extremes. Again the vivid images seen by Audrey break into my mind. The ship –like the polar bear- head north. I can’t take my eyes away from the bear’s eyes. Our eyes make contact and I can see its resolution and hope. In the end the bear not thinks, instinctively he only swims, living the moment, hopping for the ice, for food… Suddenly I understand:

- Dear brother – I whisper to the polar bear- we, like you, are also living the moment, ignoring the future. Following the same path, hoping innocently that everything is going to be fine, here or who knows where. We, like you, are immortals. ¿Are we?

GIVING WINGS TODAY FOR TOMORROW Carol – Causana’s Viajes Director- truly enjoys birdwatching. And part of the fun is teaching kids how find, recognize and protect them. Last Monday Carol faced, with determination, the not easy task of being in front of 50 noisy, energetic and curious kids of 5 to 6 years old. The challenge was high; Francisco –Carol’s grandchild- was part of the gang. And of course he observes his Granny with special attention and rigorous criticism.

She passed the test.

The kids enjoyed the photographs, her explanations about the most common birds that they can watch every day in their backyards, close to the beach, on the trees or at the nearby pond. Every one participated with enthusiasm and happiness touching the feathers of the flamingoes, rheas, tinamous, and opening big eyes looking mesmerized at the size of a Condor feather.

Birds and kids are all over the world. If we gave them the opportunity to know, understand and respect the natural world and all its creatures, probably all of us will have the chance to build a better world.

Enjoy the photographs!

PUNTA TOMBO - Magellanic Penguin’s Kingdom

The call of Life

Early penguins arriving to the colony

“The sunset would delay itself among purple clouds a minute more each day. The upland-geese crossed the skies, escaping from the warm but deadly fields of the north. The green grass, grown tall with rains, was turning gold over the hills. A special excitement seized every living creature. The last week of August, announces the arrival of September – change, new life.Attentive to the rhythm of this natural watch, certain creature –half bird, half fish- reached earth by following their instinct. The wobbly steps of the first males on the beach, marks the beginning of a new season for the Magellanic Penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus). In successive waves, a living tide would begin to occupy their places, their territory, disposing themselves to perpetuate their species. The sacred ceremony of every living thing of being one more each time…” (Extracted from “Fight for Life” Adventures in the Penguin metropoli – by Carlos A. Passera)

Fights, hugs & mate

Punta Tombo –located South of Peninsula Valdes in Patagonia- is the biggest continental colony of Magellanic Penguins in the world. Except for Antarctica or the South Atlantic islands, there are no other places in the planet in which you can walk amongst them. Be surrounded by thousands of these funny creatures. After six months in the ocean, most of the penguins are faithfull to their colony. Once they breed, they often return each year to the same nest site. From September to mid April they are busy following their instinct: mate, lay their eggs, breed their chicks, molt their feathers and return to the ocean.

Adult & Chicks

Since the early 80’s the population has declined 22%. Oil spills, overfishing, and climate warming conspire against their survival. Nevertheless more than 200.000 breeding pairs of Magellanic penguins await you, to enrich your life.

Close encounter

Punta Tombo is a very strong wildlife experience. Penguins, wildlife, they only ask for respect and your commitment to help protect their environment.

BIRDS of ARGENTINA: Peninsula Valdes

Wings between steppe & waves

August is the second month of winter in Patagonia, migrating birds begin to move during the second half of the month. It would surprise you, as I keep on enjoying and learning to share with me all the birds I saw this month. Some, I was lucky to get a photo of, and others I thoroughly enjoyed but did not have my camera with me. It had been years since I had seen Rufous-chested Dotterel (Eudromias modestus) in the area of Peninsula Valdes-Punta Tombo and yesterday I showed my grandson, husband and daughter a flock of 5 of them! They must be on their way South. I have been birding these past few weeks in the surrounding areas of Puerto Madryn, on the Golfo Nuevo, on the Atlantic Coast of Patagonia, Argentina. Chilean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis)

A flock of approximately 50 flamingoes, which include several immature birds that have white and black plumage, have been feeding at low tide on the beaches of Puerto Madryn. They have been incredibly patient with people approaching them to take pictures, with dogs by entering the water until they can barely stand. We have had some very low tides, in the mud flats exposed at these low tides is where the feed on tiny organisms.

Last weeks favorite birds: Red Backed Hawk (Buteo polyosoma) a male perched on an Atriplex bush. This majestic bird of prey is also known as Variable Hawk, it has a wide distribution in Argentina and Chile. The female is the one that has the red on the back. The nest on posts or on the tallest shrubs and build the nest with twigs, they eat small rodents, lizards and small birds. This photo was taken on the road to Doradillo beach.

Southern Giant Petrel (Macronectes giganteus) To watch a Giant Petrel fly just above the surface of the water is an unforgettable sight. This particular petrel was a clumsy young bird, trying to dive for fish; but unbeatable in flight. Young birds are much darker brown, almost black, than the adults.

Brown-hooded gull (Larus maculipennis) These small gulls molt into breeding plumage this month. Sometimes they look a lot like terns when they are flying; they have bright red legs and feet and feed on the “restingas” at low tide.

Crested Duck (Anas specularoides) This large duck has got its common English name for a crest which is not quite so, as it is on the back neck, so it is not very visible, unless you get very good looks of the head. They live in salty or fresh water and are wide spread in Argentina and Chile. They have a large green iridescent patch on their wings which is visible in flight, and it is after this patch that they were given the Latin name specularoides.

Two-banded Plover (Charadius falklandicus) A flock of 20 or 30 plovers with breeding and non breeding plumage were feeding at low tide, on the “restingas” (rocky platforms with small mussels, barnacles, tidal pools with anemones, snails & worms) near Cerro Avanzado. When I downloaded the photos I realized several were banded so I sent the information to the local researchers. They run a few meters and stop while they are feeding, they love eating a worm which is so big compared to their size, you wonder where the fit it in! They migrate within Argentina, and are strictly a South American shorebird. Other birds who were sharing the food available were Kelp Gulls and Blackish Oystercatchers.

Some flocks of wild geese have been flying South, the most common is the Upland Goose. The few land birds I saw were mostly Rufous–collared Sparrows, the always happy singer the Patagonian Mockingbird, and the gorgeous looking Long –tailed Meadowlark. This last bird is one of the few with Red coloration we have the pleasure to spot on the vast desert.

September is when the Magellanic penguins return to nest at the several colonies along the Coast of Patagonia. Keep on checking our blog with further news on penguins. Carol Mackie de Passera Causana Viajes

Antarctica

Antarctica, a land of extremes

All crisis offer opportunities…Today travelers can take advantage of them. The Antarctic Expeditions offer, in these special moments, rates and incentives worth while considering. Consult us; your dream to explore one of the last pristine corners of the Earth can become true. Our travel experience to this natural sanctuary will help you enhance your travel experience…

ANTARCTICA is not a place… (From “Momentos” by Carlos A. Passera) “… Antarctica is –like the steppe- something that goes beyond comprehension. It resembles a sensation more than a place. It is not strong – like a swig of aquavit that invades burning- but it intoxicates with gradual intensity. By when you are about to articulate a word of astonishment, it is too late. Without escape you are “drunk” with Antarctica. And it does not go away. The “hang over” lasts but it is pleasant. It does not hurt or bother, and on the contrary, it makes a feeling of gratitude towards life flourish. You wish to share this feeling with those you love.

It happens to a few privileged – according to those who have experienced the same- the spirit of Antarctica, its magic; install’s itself in the soul. And you feel it, although without an acute description, you feel it. That instant –if a sort of comparison exists- could resemble a state of profound meditation. To that moment when the energy climbs potent by the column, it expands and it allows the spirit to wander without limits. And it happened to me. Since that first time and during 10 years – sometimes more than one trip per year- that communion with Antarctica repeated itself with the same intensity. Each voyage leaves its imprint…

When in the chaos of daily life, a word, a phrase read in the newspaper, news seen on television, mentions her no matter where we are. From any corner of the planet, those who stepped on Antarctica, will feel that only one cardinal point rules their compass and will not -nor will be able to- avoid the spirit to escape free and wild to join the colossal score of voices, sounds, shapes and colors in that remote Antarctic last frontier. ..”

BUENOS AIRES

The charm of the south Buenos Aires is a city with sophisticated style. It is also the most elegant and active city in South America, been called the Paris of the southern hemisphere. With a dynamic activity, it has managed to preserve old traditions and endearing corners.

“Travel and Leisure” magazine recently choose Buenos Aires as the best city in South America and one of the two best of the World. Four of the best hotels in the World are from Argentina, the Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt in first place, followed by the traditional Alvear Palace Hotel.

Visitors feel fascinated due to all Buenos Aires has to offer: marble statues, domes, patios, outdoor cafes, tango, theatres. Great celebrities such as Evita, Carlos Gardel, Piazzola, Jorge Luis Borges, Raul Soldi, Julio Boca or Paloma Herrera and many other writers, musicians, dancers, sport cracks and artists are children of this charming city. Excellent food -which includes the famous Argentine beef- wines, antique flee market, artisan markets….and much, much more.

You can return many times and see different things. Spring and fall are favorite seasons for those who enjoy seeing street trees in bloom; the “Ceibos”, “Palo borrachos”, “Jacarandas”, “Tipas”, and “Lapachos”.

As Buenos Aires is so huge, tourists usually think ahead what to do here. Causana Viajes provides you with a good guide; otherwise the city may be too much to handle.

Different recommended itineraries that can be chosen according to time availability

T BA- Traditional Buenos Aires

C BA- Corners of Buenos Aires

(Detailed Itineraries upon request - causana@causana.com)

2 STEPS TO DESIGN YOUR STAY IN BUENOS AIRES 1- Let us know what kind of accommodations you prefer to stay at, for example if you prefer a small place, large rooms, a certain neighborhood, would like to be close to certain attractions, if it must have a restaurant, an Art Gallery or a Spa, etc, etc. 2- Next, choose from the following activities we can offer you. Causana Viajes takes care of organizing everything. All you have to do is come and enjoy one of the most beautiful and friendly cities in the world. City tours, half day conventional or full day including a lunch stop visiting other districts such as San Isidro, Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood, Chinatown, etc. The conventional city tour can also be split into 2 city tours spending more time in the places visited, walking more at San Telmo, Recoleta, La Boca, Palermo Park. Tango: shows with or without dinner, with or without transfers and an accompanying guide. Different seats and categories of shows are available. Tango lessons or tango orientated city tours. A day in the Pampas: spend a day at an Estancia (Ranch) and learn about the “gauchos” lifestyle and culture Gourmet and wine tasting day: enjoy tea, taste some of the finest Argentine wines, visit gourmet stores, the wine Museum; end the day in a select world class restaurant. Duration: from3 PM until dinner ends and we take you back to your hotel. Art tour: Visit 3 of the finest Art Museums and then enjoy some time visiting Art Galleries Personal friend: Don’t you love going to a city where you have a friend who takes you to places where tourists normally do not go to? Enjoy the company of someone who, knowing your interests, will be capable of taking you to the most characteristic and adequate places to enhance your experience in the city. Tigre: a large Delta, where the wide Rio de la Plata begins to flow towards the Atlantic. Visit the many small rivers in a private boat, enjoy lunch at a local restaurant, or you can do this sharing the boat trip with other people. You also visit the Mercado de Frutos, with many local produce, from fruits to furniture. A new small “mate Museum” may be visited as well. You can also take the coastal train to reach Tigre. Costanera Sur Nature Reserve: spend half a day bird watching with an expert guide, in 3 hours you can see 40 different species!-many new ones for people who have never been in South America before. Inquire about other bird watching options to Ribera Norte, Tigre or Otamendi. Shop until you drop: let us you what you are looking for and we will assign a guide who will take you to find it! Mestiza country day: Spend the day in a relaxing atmosphere; you will be greeted with tea, coffee or mate. Swimming pool towels are available as well as bicycles and horses. Lunch begins at 12:30 with an assortment of salamis and artisanal cheeses. Lunch may be a typical Argentine “asado” Different meats, chicken, pork, chorizos and insides with several salads with different dressing used in this country as well as artisanal spices. Soft drinks and wines, or you can opt for the daily Argentine gourmet menu. 5 0’ clock teas with home made cakes. Optional polo lessons or hot –air balloon rides available. You may observe many birds on La Mestiza’s grounds. Visit Uruguay: day trip or longer stays in Colonia del Sacramento, declared a World Heritage Site.

Textiles, testimony of daily human life

Spinning History

Next Departure April 11th - 24th 2010

The first remains of spun fibers of Argentina are very ancient, dating back to 6.720 to 7.670 BC. Textiles are of great importance when studying the history of Art in South América. They are the expresion of a culture that resists it’s disappearance and that gives testimony of a world different to the western. South America Textiles have always been present in every ceremony: they have and will continue being tributes to the monarchs; gifts for warriors; element of religious sacrifice and funerary attire. During this unique trip with Causana Viajes you will visit remote communities of the Argentine Puna where you will meet weavers, spinners, dyers; see examples of their superbly talented work and learn about their techniques. In many places, you may buy things directly from the people.

We focus on 2 very different areas: the Argentine Northwest, with several strong influences in their textiles. And Patagonia, where the “mapuches” spin not as fine, and weave with no foreign influences, taught from mothers and grandmothers to only the women in the family. We'll also visit some fine Museums. Our tour leader will hold a mini-class in the hotel, teaching how to spin with a mapuche spindle. Our trips incorporate unique talks, demonstrations, visits with people who have used ancient techniques in their art, Join us to share lively dinner table conversations and a great give and take along the way.

History of Patagonia

Remembering the Welsh pioneers each July 28th

Schooner "Mimosa". She sailed the first Welsh inmigrants to Patagonia

First Welsh settlers landing at Port Madryn

The Welsh immigrants, who settled in Patagonia -more precisely in the Chubut River Valley (Camwy) in 1865- where the first white people who bravely dared to settle this harsh land in the year 1865. Each 28th of July, the city of Puerto Madryn remembers the day the first schooner, called “Mimosa” landed on the shores of the New Bay. This celebration is shared with the descendants of the Tehuelche and Mapuche Indians who inhabited Patagonia in those days. The Tehuelche tribe made friends with the welsh settlers and taught them how to survive in this land hunt. A few learned each other language. Different activities such as a sacred ceremony at dawn, a barrel race, recreating the landing, Welsh tea, choir and music concerts take place in Puerto Madryn during that week. Carol Mackie de Passera – Director and owner of Causana Viajes - descends from Welsh pioneers who lived in the Chubut River Valley until floods, at the end of the 19th century, destroyed their home. So they moved to the province of Entre Rios where there was, and still is, another Welsh settlement. Thirty years ago Carol returned to Patagonia. Today, her daughter Marina and granddaughter Martina (born in Trelew in 2008), who descend from Nain Winifred, all live in Puerto Madryn.

Winifred, Carol's Great-Great Grandmother; Grany Winnie & Nora, Carol's Mother

Carol; her daughter Marina & grandchild Martina We have no photo of Great Grandmother Ann.

Mrs. Luned Roberts Gonzales & Carol at the Camwy School of Gaiman

Map of the area where the first Welsh settlers landed at Port Madryn and the Chubut (Camwy) River Valley where they still farm the land.

“…If the banks of the Camwy are not among the few calm dreams of the world, I will wait in the sounding of harps for better. Clear water runs sometimes over sand and pebbles from the harbour, with many a pool under willows, and always blue in the shade of poplars, or shining through the rushes, sometimes in the shallows breaking into fingers with little islands between, and everywhere alive with duck and heron, and birds prettier than a wish…” (Up into the singing mountain by Richard Llewellyn)

(Plates of the Schooner Mimosa, and the landing were published in the book "MIMOSA" writen by Susan Wilkinson. The map above belongs to Richard Llewelly's book "Up into the Singing Mountain").