Walking with Whales II

Hearing the whales

“Long time ago I read, in an article from an old natural history magazine, that Inuits –in the Arctic- have a place were they go “to hear the whales…” Seated on the pebble beach -located only a few kilometers from the city of Puerto Madryn, in Patagonia- I remembered that article and smiled grateful. The Southern Right Whales swim in front of me only a few meters from the coast. I can see their evolutions, their behavior, hear their voices and –also occasionally- smell their breath…”

(From Dinosaurios “Relatos y Sueños de un Guardafauna by Carlos A. Passera)

Last year I wrote in this blog a post called “Walking with Whales”. Again I feel the need to share a bit of that incredible experience of being so intimate with the whales. Nothing, photos or descriptions, can explain the privilege of that incomparable rendezvous with them. But let me try again. Since April to end of October we go almost every day to the beach called El Doradillo –distant only 17 kilometers from the city of Puerto Madryn- to enjoy the gentle giants: the Southern Right Whales. Year after year the feelings are the same: astonishment, fascination, harmony and gratitude… Even though we are enormouslly privileged to rise every morning and see the whales through the window of our home in the city, and spy them at any time during the day on our way to the bank or doing shopping or driving to work, going to El Doradillo is a balsam.

Not one or two whales living freely their lives, no, dozens of them pass by in front of the people, no further than 5 to 10 meters from the shore. Nursing their calves, mating, breaching, lob tailing, doing –not more and surely not less- than living their own life.

Enjoy the photographs.
Carlos & Carol Passera Photos: Carlos & Carol Whale season at Peninsula Valdes: End of April to end of November; At El Doradillo area and from Puerto Madryn waterfront end of April to end of September.

History of Patagonia

Remembering the Welsh pioneers each July 28th

Schooner "Mimosa". She sailed the first Welsh inmigrants to Patagonia

First Welsh settlers landing at Port Madryn

The Welsh immigrants, who settled in Patagonia -more precisely in the Chubut River Valley (Camwy) in 1865- where the first white people who bravely dared to settle this harsh land in the year 1865. Each 28th of July, the city of Puerto Madryn remembers the day the first schooner, called “Mimosa” landed on the shores of the New Bay. This celebration is shared with the descendants of the Tehuelche and Mapuche Indians who inhabited Patagonia in those days. The Tehuelche tribe made friends with the welsh settlers and taught them how to survive in this land hunt. A few learned each other language. Different activities such as a sacred ceremony at dawn, a barrel race, recreating the landing, Welsh tea, choir and music concerts take place in Puerto Madryn during that week. Carol Mackie de Passera – Director and owner of Causana Viajes - descends from Welsh pioneers who lived in the Chubut River Valley until floods, at the end of the 19th century, destroyed their home. So they moved to the province of Entre Rios where there was, and still is, another Welsh settlement. Thirty years ago Carol returned to Patagonia. Today, her daughter Marina and granddaughter Martina (born in Trelew in 2008), who descend from Nain Winifred, all live in Puerto Madryn.

Winifred, Carol's Great-Great Grandmother; Grany Winnie & Nora, Carol's Mother

Carol; her daughter Marina & grandchild Martina We have no photo of Great Grandmother Ann.

Mrs. Luned Roberts Gonzales & Carol at the Camwy School of Gaiman

Map of the area where the first Welsh settlers landed at Port Madryn and the Chubut (Camwy) River Valley where they still farm the land.

“…If the banks of the Camwy are not among the few calm dreams of the world, I will wait in the sounding of harps for better. Clear water runs sometimes over sand and pebbles from the harbour, with many a pool under willows, and always blue in the shade of poplars, or shining through the rushes, sometimes in the shallows breaking into fingers with little islands between, and everywhere alive with duck and heron, and birds prettier than a wish…” (Up into the singing mountain by Richard Llewellyn)

(Plates of the Schooner Mimosa, and the landing were published in the book "MIMOSA" writen by Susan Wilkinson. The map above belongs to Richard Llewelly's book "Up into the Singing Mountain").